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Crying over Nigel Slater Toast

January 13, 2011 by Sarah Trivuncic 31 Comments

Last week on BBC iPlayer I blubbed my way, from start, almost to finish, through the dramatised version of Nigel Slater’s childhood autobiography, Toast.

Nigel’s beloved but culinarily challenged mother died when he was around 10 years old with his father remarrying the blousy cleaner soon after. He disliked his step mother but her effortless triumphs in the kitchen set him on the course to become a chef.

Young Nigel was played by the adorable Oscar Kennedy. I think it was the combination of watching his splendid performance, imagining my own little boy being left on his own and a close friend having lost his mother at the same age that really got to me. Either that or the Dusty Springfield tracks played throughout.

Is it just me or do lots of us have horrid childhood food memories of some sort? I have plenty of good ones but they are balanced with the bad. Warm third pint milk bottles stabbed with thin green straws (I didn’t quite vomit all over the teacher like the young Nigel Slater but I came extremely close). I also shared Nigel’s memories of dinners of incinerated fish, in my case fish fingers – my mother stands accused here and will deny all knowledge in the comments below. But most unforgettably, my father unintentionally using emotional blackmail that the canned sardine in tomato sauce on my plate would have “died for nothing” if I didn’t eat it. It’s a wonder I didn’t become vegetarian over night.

As a teenager given free range in my father’s glorious (sarcasm alert) kitchen I regularly concocted a bolognaise sauce of some description into which I would throw pretty much anything. Unable to cook much else but desperate to avoid the threatened combination of watercress and canned sardine in tomato sauce that were the frequent alternative, I’d pretend to be a grown up in Safeway and come back with bags of mince, onions and five varieties of tinned vegetable. Baked beans were usually included. And grated cheese. Fortunately my father was a great deal more appreciative than Nigel’s eternally grumpy dad as portrayed by Ken Stott.

Now Nigella Lawson’s Rapid Ragu may sound a darn sight more stylish with it’s panetta and canned puy lentils but it’s not a million miles from those meaty (and slightly freaky) pasta sauces I used to cook up on the kind of cooker that now belongs in the Geffrye Museum.

With Ted’s “help” I brewed up a Rapid Ragu using some pancetta left over from Christmas. It also features my favourite caramelised onions from Waitrose.

This time round I added an extra ingredient, a blend of Hunter’s Spice Mix given to me by Kavey at a food bloggers’ meet up late last year alongside Meeta, Jamie, Hilda, Jeanne, Anne, Michelle, Julia, Catty, and Eunice.

It’s an aromatic blend of cumin, mustard seeds, paprika and chilli and I look forward to rubbing it into steaks next. Kavey had the lovely idea of giving us all a bag of spices to concoct a special dish to mark our get together. I still have plenty left so this won’t be the last you see of it.

Here’s a view below without the cheese. You can get the recipe from Nigella.com , my only amendment has been to throw in a generous quantity of Kavey’s hunter’s spice mix.

Pssst! It’s the last couple of days to submit your entry to my new blog challenge Forever Nigella!

Filed Under: Journal Tagged With: family meals

About Sarah Trivuncic

Sarah Trivuncic has published recipes, restaurant and travel reviews on Maison Cupcake since 2009. She lives in Walthamstow, East London with her husband and teenager.
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Comments

  1. Rhyelysgranny says

    January 13, 2011 at 11:38 pm

    I missed it and i was so cross. I player is such a pain only giving a week to catch up. I loved the ebook. Rapid ragu is good andd yours looks lovely as does your little helper x

    Reply
  2. Ice Maiden says

    January 14, 2011 at 12:18 am

    I’m glad to see that I’m in the majority in blubbing all the way through Toast! When my Mum & Dad married Dad used to come home from work and ask ‘What’s burnt for tea tonight?’! But Mum was only 16 and her own Mum classed a packet of biscuits as an appropriate tea! Luckily my other Nan was fab and taught us both to cook 🙂

    My Dad’s ‘Fridge Casserole’ is stil etched in my mind though – take one casserole dish, empty the fridge into it, bake for 2 hours and serve to two horrified little girls LOL!

    Reply
  3. Kavey says

    January 14, 2011 at 3:14 pm

    I enjoyed the book but didn’t see the televisation yet…

    Love your use of the spices!

    x

    Reply
    • Sarah, Maison Cupcake says

      January 14, 2011 at 7:46 pm

      I’m sure it will be on again soon, I’ll let you know if I see it advertised.

      Reply
  4. Jeanne @ CookSister says

    January 14, 2011 at 5:06 pm

    Damn – I wanted to see Toast but missed it. I love Nigel Slater to bits so definitely have to try and get hold of it! I don’t realyl have terrible childhood food memories – dislikes, yes (banana, guava, pawpaw – blech!) but not realyl terrible memories. My mom used to make a cheesy egg dish – hard-boiled eggs, peeled, cut in half and laid in a single layer in a baking dish, to be topped with bechamel sauce and cheese and grilled. For some reason, by brother and I took against it and every time my mom said we were having it for lunch we went into contortions of disgust. It’s so funny thinking about it now – after all that we’d eat it and it was never as bad as we imagined… but oh boy how we complained!

    Love the sound of your spice blend – and the ragu it went into

    Reply
    • Sarah, Maison Cupcake says

      January 14, 2011 at 7:46 pm

      LOL I rather like the sound of your mother’s egg dish, I might try it!!

      Reply
  5. Fabulicious Food! says

    January 14, 2011 at 6:44 pm

    I’m ashamed to say I didn’t watch (all of) Toast, though I have it recorded. I was crying within the first fifteen minutes. Clearly you can sense his mother will die and with my own boy only being three and a half I just couldn’t watch it! I must pluck up some courage and watch the rest, I just felt it was the kind of programme that would turn me into an uncontrollable blubbering wreck! I love Nigella’s rapid Ragu, the lentils are a great addition by her. Will make it again soon. I agree, amazing pics. And how lovely that your Mum comments on your blog in a positive way, not Julie and Julia style – “Why are you still writing this nonsense!”

    Reply
    • Sarah, Maison Cupcake says

      January 14, 2011 at 7:47 pm

      Yep I was a blubbering wreck for same reason. My mum reads the blog avidly but tends only to comment when I mention her!!!

      Reply
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