Last week on BBC iPlayer I blubbed my way, from start, almost to finish, through the dramatised version of Nigel Slater’s childhood autobiography, Toast.
Nigel’s beloved but culinarily challenged mother died when he was around 10 years old with his father remarrying the blousy cleaner soon after. He disliked his step mother but her effortless triumphs in the kitchen set him on the course to become a chef.
Young Nigel was played by the adorable Oscar Kennedy. I think it was the combination of watching his splendid performance, imagining my own little boy being left on his own and a close friend having lost his mother at the same age that really got to me. Either that or the Dusty Springfield tracks played throughout.
Is it just me or do lots of us have horrid childhood food memories of some sort? I have plenty of good ones but they are balanced with the bad. Warm third pint milk bottles stabbed with thin green straws (I didn’t quite vomit all over the teacher like the young Nigel Slater but I came extremely close). I also shared Nigel’s memories of dinners of incinerated fish, in my case fish fingers – my mother stands accused here and will deny all knowledge in the comments below. But most unforgettably, my father unintentionally using emotional blackmail that the canned sardine in tomato sauce on my plate would have “died for nothing” if I didn’t eat it. It’s a wonder I didn’t become vegetarian over night.
As a teenager given free range in my father’s glorious (sarcasm alert) kitchen I regularly concocted a bolognaise sauce of some description into which I would throw pretty much anything. Unable to cook much else but desperate to avoid the threatened combination of watercress and canned sardine in tomato sauce that were the frequent alternative, I’d pretend to be a grown up in Safeway and come back with bags of mince, onions and five varieties of tinned vegetable. Baked beans were usually included. And grated cheese. Fortunately my father was a great deal more appreciative than Nigel’s eternally grumpy dad as portrayed by Ken Stott.
Now Nigella Lawson’s Rapid Ragu may sound a darn sight more stylish with it’s panetta and canned puy lentils but it’s not a million miles from those meaty (and slightly freaky) pasta sauces I used to cook up on the kind of cooker that now belongs in the Geffrye Museum.
With Ted’s “help” I brewed up a Rapid Ragu using some pancetta left over from Christmas. It also features my favourite caramelised onions from Waitrose.
This time round I added an extra ingredient, a blend of Hunter’s Spice Mix given to me by Kavey at a food bloggers’ meet up late last year alongside Meeta, Jamie, Hilda, Jeanne, Anne, Michelle, Julia, Catty, and Eunice.
It’s an aromatic blend of cumin, mustard seeds, paprika and chilli and I look forward to rubbing it into steaks next. Kavey had the lovely idea of giving us all a bag of spices to concoct a special dish to mark our get together. I still have plenty left so this won’t be the last you see of it.

Here’s a view below without the cheese. You can get the recipe from Nigella.com , my only amendment has been to throw in a generous quantity of Kavey’s hunter’s spice mix.
Pssst! It’s the last couple of days to submit your entry to my new blog challenge Forever Nigella!






Hmm, I appear to be in the minority. I have no bad food memories from my childhood, other than occasions where I gorged myself to the point of sickness (and allergy, in the case of fruit), but I don’t think that’s the same thing.
I feel the same way about Nigel Slater as I do about one of my old bosses: can’t stand him, but I respect the fact that he’s good at what he does. I read ‘Toast’ when off sick once and the step-mum was portrayed negatively, but humanely in prose. The TV adapation just made her into a caricature of a step-mother. There are some interesting counterpoints on this in an interview with her daughters in the Daily Mail: http://is.gd/6LqCsQ
I totally accept that the characters were drawn very starkly, it still made me blub though. Not read the book. Will look up your Daily Mail link.
Oooh that ragu looks fabulous! I think I’ll make something like that this week. I have many horrid food memories from childhood as my mom not only hated to cook but wasn’t very good either. Thank heavens for all that great Space Age packaged, boxed, frozen, canned stuff and the cool recipes my sister brought home from Girl Scouts.